About Myanmar

Myanmar is also known as Burma. The main tourist spots are Yangon (Rangoon), Mandalay, Inle Lake, and of course the huge temple area of Bagan (Pagan).

Yangon lies in the fertile delta country of southern Myanmar on the wide Yangon River. At night the wide boulevards come alive with hordes of stalls selling delicious-looking food and piles of huge cigars. Yangon is home to the gold-plated Shwedagon Paya, which dominates the city from its hilltop site. Legend has it that the original stupa was built to enshrine eight of Buddha's hairs. Other sights include the colonial architecture of the legendary Strand Hotel, the colossal reclining Buddha in Chaukhtatgyi Paya and the peaceful Kandawgyi and Inya Lakes.

Mandalay was the last capital of Myanmar before the British took over and is the country's second-largest city. Highlights include Shwenandaw Kyaung, the sole remaining building of the once extravagant moated palace, Mandalay Hill with its spiralling stairways, temples and sweeping views and the ancient Rakhine Buddha image at Mahamuni Paya. Bustling markets with produce and handicrafts from all over Upper Myanmar are another feature of Mandalay. There are four ‘deserted cities' nearby: Amarapura, Sagaing, Ava and Mingun. Mingun is the most appealing of the four. Not only are there some wonderful monuments in various states of disrepair, but just getting there is half the fun. Mingun is only accessible by river, and the boat ride from Mandalay is a treat.

Bagan is a bewildering and deserted city full of fabulous pagodas and temples. Located on the banks of the Ayeyarwady is one of the wonders of Asia. Bagan's period of grandeur stretched from the 11th to the 13th century, and an enormous number of magnificent buildings were constructed here. The city was sacked by Kublai Khan in 1287 and never rebuilt. There are some 5000 temples, the most interesting of which are Ananda, Thatbyinnyu and Gawdawpalin.

During the Mon dynasty, Bago was a fabulous city, a major seaport and capital of lower Myanmar. The city was destroyed in 1757, but partially restored in the early 19th century. When the Bago River changed its course and cut the city off from the sea, Bago failed to return to its previous grandeur. Sights include the Shwemawdaw Pagoda which dominates the town, the Hintha Gone Pagoda and the 55m long, reclining Shwethalyaung Buddha.

Culture

Although court culture has been extinguished, popular street-level culture is vibrant and thriving. Drama is the mainstay of this culture, and just about any celebration is a good excuse for a show (known as a pwe). Performances may recount Buddhist legends, or be more light-hearted entertainments involving slapstick comedy, dance, ensemble singing or giant puppets. Burman music is an integral part of a pwe; it originates from Siam and emphasises rhythm and melody. Instruments are predominantly percussive and include drums, boat-shaped harps, gongs and bamboo flutes.

Over 85% of Burman are Theravada Buddhist, although it is not the official state religion and since the Ne Win government takeover, it has actually officially occupied a less central role in Burman life. In the Rakhine region, towards Bangladesh, there are many Muslims. Christian missionaries have had some success among hill tribes but many remain staunch animists.

Burmese is the predominant language and has its own alphabet and script. Though you're hardly going to have time to master the alphabet, it may be worth learning the numerals, if only so you can read the bus numbers. English is spoken by a few Burmans, particularly by the older generation.

It's easier to buy authentic Burman dishes from food stalls rather than restaurants. Chinese and Indian eateries predominate, and hotel restaurants tend to remove much of the chilli and shrimp paste from their Burman dishes. Rice is the core of any Burman meal. To this is added a number of curry options and a spicy raw vegetable salad, and almost everything is flavoured with ngapi - a dried and fermented shrimp paste. Chinese tea is generally preferable to the over-strong, over-sweet and over-milky Burman tea. Sugar-cane juice is a very popular streetside drink, and stronger tipples include orange brandy, lychee wine and the alarming-sounding white liquor and jungle liquor.

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Transport

The delightfully ancient buses in Yangon and Mandalay are very cheap and convenient, although you may end up hanging out the side. There are horse carts in Mandalay and trishaws just about everywhere; negotiate fares in advance.

Visa_Information

Although some Myanmar embassies abroad will say tourist visa extensions aren't permitted, once in Myanmar you can usually extend your visa up to 30 days - with two week extensions are the norm - beyond the original 28 day validity.