Bagan

Bagan is one of the true wonders of Asia. Formerly spelt Pagan, it is a bewildering city of fabulous pagodas and temples on the banks of the Ayeyarwaddy River, to the south-west of Manadalay.

Scattered across a vast arid plain stand over 3,000 magnificent monuments which proclaim the piety and power of Myanmar's first empire.

As a manifestation of a dynamic and original form of architecture, Bagan stands alongside the other great Buddhist centres of Southeast Asia like Angkor Wat in Cambodia or Borobudur in Java.

Bagan's period of grandeur started in 1057 when King Anawrahta conquered Thaton and brought back artists, artisans, monks and 30 elephant-loads of Buddhist scriptures.

Over the next two centuries, an enormous number of magnificent buildings were erected, but after Kublai Khan sacked the city in 1287 it was never rebuilt. A major earthquake in 1975 caused enormous damage but everything of importance has now been restored or reconstructed. Unhappily, the plunderers who visit places like Bagan to scavenge for western art collectors have also done damage, but it is definitely the place in Myanmar not to be missed.

The rainy season lasts from mid-May until mid-October. For the next few months, the weather is quite reasonable. In fact, it is actually cool in Mandalay at night and near freezing in Kalaw, near Inle Lake. From mid-February, it gets increasingly hot until the rains arrive once more. The Burmese New Year in April, at the peak of the hot season, means much fun and throwing water at all concerned. November to February are the best months to visit.